Quite possibly the last of squalid lawlessness in the heart of Hong Kong, it’s the Kowloon Walled City I wish I could have been to, with hit-or-miss Indian food and that elusive Ghanaian home eatery I hope to visit before I leave Hong Kong. This might sound strange, my impression of Hong Kong changed for the better the last time I stayed here five years ago.

Chungking Mansions
36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon, Hong Kong

We might have explored more dockside if not for trespassing concerns and oh the mosquitoes – which were coming right at me, just me.

Art for the masses need not be crass but this time it is because of the way the public interacts with it.

It’s one of those days when bad things happen to people you don’t know very well and you know they’ve got loved ones who are hurting so much more right this moment as you type. RIP.

A must, if you ever find yourself in Annecy.  Two baby squirrels came home with us.

Paul Machenaud
7, Rue de la République, 74000 Annecy,
Haute-Savoie, France
+33 4 50 45 20 58

Quiet reminders of a sad period in French history around every corner in this city turn everything bittersweet.

Here’s to three years and many more. My first omakase, decadently mind-blowing as it should. Thank you, J.

Hana Sakazuki
2/F China Tai Ping Tower, Phase II,
8 Sunning Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

Gibberish masquerading as Chinese.

Where we met a jovial French butcher called Manu who knows how to slice beef the way we need it for hotpot, now that’s a gem I say !

Preemptive vandalism, rampant in French society today.

So I am of the opinion that sandwiches taste better when baguettes are not involved.

Dream gig (HELEN FENG + ATOM. ‘NUFF SAID) so good it’s worth venturing into the industrial heartlands of Ngau Tau Kok for the very first time on a Sunday night.

First off, fondue is a must (or some among us might cry sacrilege)…

… balanced by the soupy spicy goodness of la fondue chinoise ! You know we are serious about hotpot when the yuanyang pot had traveled the distance (all of 9518.12km) to make this little party possible and, erm, we have the right soup packs (Haidilao no less) and fresh chilli soy sauce dips.

Some minor mishaps involving temperature hot tofu did take place…

… but nothing that 50 oysters couldn’t solve.

Have to admit I’m more a fan of raclette than fondue. What about you ?

M also whipped up tartiflette from scratch and left everyone, Frenchies included, duly impressed.

On our last night in the mountains, we shared a dozen of cheap and tasty escargots from Annecy (score)…

… and come full circle back to fondue.

Disclaimer: We may or may not have drank an unspeakable amount of wine and génépi on all of the nights we stayed with M and C.

I tried skiing for the first time last December and had lots of fun except for the moment where I fell off a snowy cliff, eyes closed and hoping that my legs were in a good position so they wouldn’t break.

Hand-painted posters are unfortunately quite a rare sight in Singapore these days.

Big up to local art collective RSCLS. Happy to chance upon this fantastic mural at Elgin Bridge underpass connecting Riverwalk and Boat Quay. There is hope for street art in Singapore, I’d say.

I haven’t found a better mee kuah elsewhere and this post is mostly for my sister because I’ve finally noted down the address this time so she could head there when I’m not in town for her mee kuah fix. Their roti pratas and curries are also pretty tasty too.

Al-Jilani Restaurant
127 Bencoolen Street, near Middle Road
Singapore 189637
Open 24 hours/ 7 days a week

Made me smile and teary-eyed. If you are up for only one exhibition in the coming months, this will be it. Runs till 26 May 2013 at the National Museum of Singapore.

Slightly annoying that it’s been raining way too much this new year of the snake in Singapore so far. Nevertheless, may your new year be filled with good things and pleasant surprises ! Huat ah !

p/s I’ve been finding it somewhat hilarious to say “Huat ah !” of late even if I don’t quite agree with the overwhelming emphasis on getting rich everytime we ring in the new year.

The day was mostly gray and windy.

I mean, what are the chances of coming across an AA office ?

We went ice skating that evening and I was not very good at it.

Being in Paris on our way to Lyon on Christmas Day turned out to be a blessing in disguise. I was guilty of consuming most of the two huge plates of beansprouts, Thai basil and ngo gai outside of the frame. Mmm, just what I needed on a windy wintry day.

Pho Mui
97 avenue d’Ivry, 75013 Paris, France
+33 1 45 83 70 68

Wish Galeries Lafayette hasn’t collaborated with luxury brands for its Christmas window displays but I suppose it is a department store after all.

An approximate order of events the moment I arrived in Paris where I gave momi a bisous, dropped off my bags, showered and popped over to this. Quite the pitch-perfect start to the Christmas holidays that comes with an equally creaky elevator ride I happen to be very much enamored with.

Basque for lunch on our last afternoon in Paris purely by chance, one of the few meals where we ate out this trip. We definitely have to come back again with the mother-in-law next time we are back. And I think my mom might actually enjoy Basque cuisine.

Au Bascou
38 Rue Réaumur, 75003 Paris, France
+33 1 42 72 69 25

From last October when a good friend sneaked out of a work retreat in Macau to come visit and so it was Peng Chau again on a weekend afternoon chatting by the sea as the sun set. Good times even if we didn’t stay for too long.

With chuan’r on wheels, who needs McDonald’s delivery ?

Not very good.

Omg so good.

Erm yes, turtle and snake herbal hotpot.

CHICKEN CARTILAGE CHUAN’R ! Om nom nom.

Extra servings of dishes that I like.

And I’m not the one who ordered smelly tofu at 3am.

On this note, am off to France tonight for a rainy and white Christmas so this is looking very likely to be my last post of the year. Have a Merry Christmas and a wonderful New Year boys and girls !  Don’t do anything that I wouldn’t and see you around next year.

I am in love with the gorgeously-restored 1932 Art Deco building which houses the musem and I always find it inspiring to go there for a few quiet hours in the afternoon. The museum is not big so its exhibitions are in turn bite-sized and digestible even for those allergic to contemporary art. Oh, and a cuppa at its roof terrace cafe is a must.

上海外滩美术馆 Rockbund Art Museum
No. 20 Huqiu Lu (near Beijing Dong Lu), Huangpu district, Shanghai, P.R. China
中国上海市黄埔区虎丘路20号（近北京东路）
+86 (21) 3310 9985

To chuan’r and friends with luggage in tow. It’s becoming quite a ritual I must say.

Was fortunate to be back in one of my favorite cities on an extended work trip late last month. I don’t know why but I felt extra emotional to be back this time even if it was all winter and bleak. It was a city where I met boys who broke my heart but also chanced upon the love of my life, hung out with fun acquaintances, drank too much and made fast friends for life. I think I miss it a little more each time I’m back even though I know it is slowly transforming into a city I will barely recognize one day.

We were in Singapore over the weekend. It wasn’t my birthday but I received a fantastic pair of running shoes that made me want to run half marathons again.

Contrary to what I had been advised, I feasted on seafood within a week after the freak accident which had left an open wound (thank god for no stitches). In my defense, the dinner was scheduled weeks ago and I couldn’t possibly have cancelled last minute. In any case, I’m trying my best to stay away from dark soy sauce for the foreseeable future. Boy, the seafood that night was good.

Increasingly it makes no difference which hotpot establishments I go to given the number of posts/ photos dedicated to my ongoing obsession with this bubbling pot of joy. The impeccable service alone, which is a rarity for those familiar with the F&B scene in China, warrants a visit to Sichuanese hotpot chain Haidilao. Food-wise, who can say no to fresh, affordable, delicious ingredients and tasty soup bases ? They’ve seriously outdone themselves. Not that the poor picture quality helps but, see, huge grin on the face of the noodle guy ! Everyone looks genuinely happy working there !

So, anyway, until Haidilao opens in Hong Kong next year or the year after (so I’ve been told), it will probably be fair to say that Haidilao would be the primary reason why I’ll be traipsing over to Shenzhen every so often.

海底捞 Haidilao
5-6/F, No. 63 Youyi Lu, Luohu district, Shenzhen, Guangdong Province, P.R. China
中国广东省深圳市罗湖区友谊路63号茂业友谊城A座5—6楼
+86 (755) 8225 0991；+86 (755) 8225 0992

Sorry to say but time and again, coastal China has proved disappointing in terms of heritage sites. Gripe aside, do try to spot the cat in this picture.

Dog meat it is.

My second time in Shenzhen and it’s probably fair to say we weren’t there to shop. We did have a good dinner though well, that’s my fodder for the next post.

Hello there, it was lovely to meet you Paola and Ignacio ! Hope to see you again soon.

As it turns out, J was a menace at the market. I’ve created an impulsive buying monster on a mission that bought up at last count: a pack of freshly-ground coffee, pecan tarts, a pack of truffle linguini, a bar of single origin Vietnamese chocolate, organic lettuce, a loaf of baguette…

I saw a girl with a full face of makeup at hot yoga class on Sunday who also brought a disposable cup of blueberry smoothie into the heated room. The instructor commented on her smoothie but made no mention of the makeup.

Immortalized. Merci, Émilie !

HKD 68 Thai durians at Wan Chai market vs. HKD 300+ Malaysian durians at City Super. Guess which ones I bought.

Unfortunately for me, I had to get on an early morning flight the day after the wedding (pretty pictures here and here) which can only mean one thing – staying up all night after the wedding, packing up and heading straight to the airport in the wee hours of the morning. It was worth it though, thank you L for having me there. It was a little adventure of a lifetime to go so far to be with you and your loved ones on your big day. Airport food just before I go, oh what was I expecting in the first place ?

… after lunch looking for colectivos. Stumbled upon a supermarket and left delighted with a few bottles of tajin and hot pepper sauce. There were barely any foreigners this part of Tulum and I must say my quiet stroll along the road in the sleepy town was pretty enjoyable.

If you only have time to go to one restaurant in Tulum, this would be it. And this was what I did, tattered printout of a Phat in Shanghai blog post in hand (big thanks Sandy !). My late lunch at El Camello Jr. was hands down my best meal in Mexico coupled with the best service to boot. Well worth the risk of hitching a ride with a bunch of Mexican boys who offered to drive me to the restaurant when I asked them for directions. True to my beliefs, nothing beats local eats and atmosphere at local prices. I’m still dreaming of that impossibly huge glass of michelada de camarón, amazing shredded shark dip, chips and salsas that pack such a fiery punch. If only I had some company that day to chat over drinks and share the hearty meal with.

El Camello Jr.
Southern end of Avenida Tulum
Tulum, Mexico

It was my second time, under guidance at least this time, since I nearly drowned during my first try in the Philippines a few years ago. The sea is calm and I saw schools of fish darting around corals. I’ll like to do it again some day.

I still think the Mayan ruins in Tulum are worth a go even if I was only there for the lack of time to travel to more impressive and less touristy ruins. The site is perched on a cliff facing the sea and comes with its own beach so definitely don’t forget your swimsuit, it makes for a fantastic day out even if you are not into history and all that.

Bridesmaid duties took a back seat on the eve of a very important day (thanks to the bride).

At sunset and from afar, Cancun does look rather idyllic for once.

Post-modern sculptures at the end of the world, at least that’s how it felt like especially when there was no one manning the ticket booth too.

Street food à la Mexican style. I’m suspecting this might be boiled yuca. It’s like rice but not rice.

Playa Norte is a gorgeous stretch of beach in Isla Mujeres with gentle waves, perfect for chillaxing adults and little ones alike. There was, however, a weird Chinese man in the shallow waters with such a ridiculously thick layer of sunblock slathered on his entire face that he looked like he had a white mask on. Unfortunately I do not have a photo to show.

Just a quick boatride away from Cancun lies the small island town of Isla Mujeres in the Caribbean Sea. It’s a charming little place to hit up for a day trip if you ever find yourself stuck in Cancun and need to get away pronto.

Sunny days in Cancun with ceviche and margaritas. For the first time in my life, sunglasses are a necessity – I would go blind otherwise.

Approximately 26 hours and two transfers later, I was in Cancun, surrounded by rowdy binge-drinking Americans as I waited for my take-away.

Got off work early on Monday thanks to T8 (not to mention, a late start at work the following day). Great timing no doubt as the family is in town and we all sat down to an impromptu Asian/ Western fusion homecooked dinner in the relative comforts of home as the storm raged on outside. And then mom cooked again last night.

Quite simply the best part of my weekend spent back home in Singapore a fortnight ago.

Been caught up in incredibly hectic times offline in the month past, followed by two weeks in Africa for a wedding. And I haven’t even got around to posting photos from Mexico and Xinjiang yet. What a backlog. I can’t wait to show you everything but this sneak peek shall have to suffice for now.

I had to take a picture of this door, even if there were people opening and walking through it every two minutes.

Even if it is so hard for us, we know you are now safe in the arms of God in heaven free from pain and stress. I am sorry, Ah Yi. We love you and we miss you.

I am officially addicted to naengmyeon.

I’ve recently taken up hot yoga and am trying to keep to a manageable routine of two yoga sessions every weekend. Can’t say I feel healthier since or have found some sort of inner peace (still cannot deal with the ‘om’ chantings), I do like the feeling of sweating it out. Such a workout !

Hotpot restaurants which impose two-hour limits are so not cool.

Turns out my colleagues are closet karaoke geniuses. Five straight hours of belting out embarrassing songs we would have no problems denying if we are accosted in the streets.

Tsim Sha Tsui on weekends is such a nightmare, especially if you are in a hurry. I was nearly tripping over people and feet and toddlers and wheeled luggage every other minute.

Not again, you say. Guilty as charged except that I’ve now added naengmyeon to the mix. I’ve been having naengmyeon for the past three days at three different restaurants. Resistance is futile, if I may add.

A red sleeveless silk blouse with metallic detail on the collar. Perhaps because it’s sold out, now I want it more (even if I know it is pricey for what it is).

We had a Japanese family over for dinner on Saturday night. Little Japanese girls are so darn cute ! Yuri-chan and Fuka-chan, it was nice to meet you both.

Had a rather picturesque high tea, my first. Good to spend time with the girlfriends although I now know for sure afternoon teas are not for me.

Didn’t manage to get up to much on my personal projects. The weekend felt rather unaccomplished and I ended up with a severe case of Monday blues.

I’ve been trying to cook healthier and eat better this year so that means less instant noodles (and less Tetra Pak soup stock). Made delicious laksa for the laksa addict in the family using the recipe of a British lady  (ironic yes, but it doesn’t matter especially when it is so easy to prepare and tastes so good) with the prettiest cookbook ever.

I also adapted another one of her recipes using J’s leftover pasta sauce from the night before. Savory brunches are the way to go.

The zesty flavors of Mexico recreated at home in this Sopa de Lima-inspired carrot soup. No recipe this time.

The fact that they have added an illustration of durian packed in a box makes me laugh. It’s also good to know that there is no fine imposed on those caught with durian.

Better late than never.

It was late autumn in Shanghai when I first checked out for myself the cutting edge concept store housed in a quaint three-storey lane house that Dong Liang is. A great store to explore if you are curious about emerging Chinese fashion designers. I was there for Beijing-based Central Saint Martins-schooled Vega Wang but ended up with a dress by Shanghai designer Ni Hua under her Miss Mean label instead. It was hard to leave the store empty-handed. I think my wallet ached a little.

栋梁 Dong Liang
No. 184 Fumin Lu (near Changle Lu), Jing’an district, Shanghai, P.R. China
中国上海市静安区富民路184号（近长乐路）
+86 (21) 3469 6926

Haw Par Villa
262 Pasir Panjang Road Singapore 118628

An exhibition opening and then a bar that provides complimentary marshmallows for roasting. Wish there were vegetables or chicken wings on sticks but I might have been asking for too much. Oh well, the marshmallows were pretty ingenious all the same.

基本扫除青少年文盲. 基本普及九年义务教育. 迎接自治区“双基”评估验收. 汇报演出. 同学们不要动，让领导先走！因公牺牲？

Xu Xin’s 2010 documentary film Karamay comes strongly recommended even if one has to be pretty hardcore to stick it out through the six hours’ worth of heart-wrenching accounts in 14 parts, first part starting here (h/t Far West China). Answers, justice, government acknowledgment, death certificates… Too much to ask for ? My heart goes out to all the parents whose children have perished or who were left maimed after the tragedy.

Originally this post would have been my first post of the Chinese New Year, but guess I eventually decided against starting the year on such a grim and depressing note.

Chinese New Year, fraught with customs and traditions, as it should be. Happy to be home spending precious time with my closest family, I’ve missed them so much. Here’s wishing you and your loved ones a fantastic year of the dragon ahead. 身体健康，心想事成！

I can’t believe it’s 2012 already ! Where did my 2011 go ? Oh dear, and I still feel like a FOB in Hong Kong. On the bright side, this will mean more explorations in the new year (hurrah) ! Have a smooth-sailing merry year ahead as I leave you with two photos taken late November last year in Shanghai, the first from my old neighborhood and the second from a familiar bar now relocated in a new neighborhood.

Still can’t figure out if the alphabets form any words, or mean anything.

We had noticed On Lee Noodle Shop on our way to the museum only because of the number of people queuing outside the eatery at (the awkward post-lunch pre-dinner hour of) 4pm. By the time we left the museum, we were craving ramen but decided to give On Lee Noodle Shop a try since the queue was gone.

Best decision ever, even if I had passed up on beef brisket the eatery is known for. This is probably the closest to fishball mee pok tah in Hong Kong. Gonna have to bring mom here the next time she is in town for her expert verdict. I’ll most definitely be back soon.

安利魚蛋粉麵 On Lee Noodle Shop
22 Shau Kei Wan Main Street East, Shau Kei Wan, Hong Kong
香港筲箕灣東大街22號

I had relied on the PDF version of this guide when I first moved to Hong Kong a year and a half ago. It was the perfect introduction to Hong Kong, with bite-sized anecdotes of charming little places to check out that makes for a good read even if one is not heading out to explore at all.

Was lucky to pop by Moustache last Saturday with J who needed to get a new suit made. Pick up your copy (HKD 100) at Moustache before it runs out !

Moustache
31 Aberdeen Street, Central, Hong Kong
香港中環鴨巴甸街31號

This is about as hardcore as it gets. The first thing I did after I’d gotten off the plane in Shanghai was to head straight to my old neighborhood for the much-anticipated malatang and chuan’r fix, with luggage in tow.

Ordered lamian by mistake when I had actually wanted daoxiaomian. Good mistake though, I haven’t had lamian in ages.

I’ve said so much about this store I’m starting to sound like an annoying broken record player. Go here and here to read what I’ve written in the past and have been constantly telling my friends and family. Praises galore yes, so it’s no surprise that I made my way to their new location during my recent trip to Shanghai. They now have space for a teahouse/café on the third floor though it wasn’t open when I visited.

Spin
No. 360 Kangding Lu (near Shaanxi Bei Lu), Jing’an district, Shanghai, P.R. China
中国上海市静安区康定路360号（近陕西北路）

Just when I thought I’ve tried everything that Shanghai has to offer, something new pops up. Like guilin mifen, but better. Best enjoyed streetside on the last days of Autumn with a girlfriend.

家味螺蛳粉
No. 621-623 Anyuan Lu (near Yanping Lu), Putuo district, Shanghai, P.R. China
中国上海市普陀区安远路621-623号（近延平路）

J finally made it to the wall after having lived in China for more than three years. While I’m not sure if I would recommend anyone else to head to Mutianyu as we did (too shiny and restored), the wheeled toboggan was certainly quite fun (could have been more fun if they don’t have staff policing speed limits all the way down the mountain) but that’s quite beside the point isn’t it ?

Oh, we also managed to explore a section of the wall which was off-limits to tourists, overgrown with weeds and wild flowers complete with crumbling walls… a secret garden of sorts ! That was actually pretty awesome. Otherwise, my favorite section of the Great Wall of all times has still got to be that great workout of a trek from Jinshanling to Simatai.

The last of the series. Thank you C and M for having us at your wonderful wedding. Hanggai was amazing ! It was lots of silly hilarious fun hanging out with friends who are now mostly living in different countries. Here’s to one more lovely Beijing memory for keeps !

A sure-fire way to make boys hate on you. Tried and tested. Unfortunately more to come next Friday on the other side of the world. Wish me luck.

Thank god I ran into him two nights ago or I wouldn’t know when next I might see him. He treated me to way too many bottles of beers and we eventually took a long walk across town to get supper. Have to say Shanghai is awesome for moments like this, seriously.

That I saw the friendliest dog in Paris smiling at me as I sipped my jus de tomate. It’s too cute, non ?

I was here the first time I was in Paris. This time I had a monaco for the first time. Could have gone either way, but I like it. We didn’t talk as much as those around us. I still can’t help but wonder how Parisians have so much to talk about, even when it is growing too chilly for comfort in the dusk.

Aux Folies
8 rue de Belleville
75020 Paris, France

Tis’ my favorite kind of laksa.

ABC ! The solution to Kuala Lumpur’s sweltering afternoons that leave us all sweaty and sticky.

Curry mee with yong tau foo chilli and blood cockles for breakfast (yes !). Food coma. Period.

A glimpse of Malaysia through food. Malay…

Chinese…

… and Indian.

I went for a swim on Saturday morning (in a last minute bid to tone my body up).

Panicking now because I had spent Saturday afternoon at Citygate Outlets instead of preparing for the wedding celebration. One last weekend to go before the flight out !

We stumbled upon a popular wanton mee stall in Jordan by chance and didn’t know it was well known until I googled up the name after we left. True indeed, not all wanton mee are created equal.

A stack of half-read Chinese-language magazines is already piling up at home and I had to buy one more over the weekend.

Weekend ended on a rather delightful note with homecooked paella, a gorgeous view of the setting sun and agreeable quantities of wine in good company.

Or we would have gotten ourselves the baked spareribs rice. Moral of the story: Best to head to cha chaan tengs at proper mealtimes, never in between. Something I’m sure Terence’s dad would agree with as well.

We spent Saturday afternoon picking clams for Sunday’s dinner, pretty much a day out at the beach with Chinese characteristics. Battling waves, we were waist deep in waters using our feet to feel for clams, which are actually buried deep in the sand (never knew that before). 

I made linguini alle vongole on Sunday night. There were so many clams my saucepan could barely fit them all and everyone said the clams were delicious, yay.

Tat and Vi of Graphic Airlines from a drawing workshop I attended a few weekends back.

We were starving after the race and the pretend bets so we made our way to a da lang stall nearby to get supper. Happy as drunken prawns can be.

Of course I was delighted and honored when P asked if I would be keen to contribute a post to her new My Asia column. Unsurprisingly, I ended up with a mini-guide to Shanghai since I’m still feeling my way around Hong Kong.  

By the way, don’t forget to check out the rest of her gem of a blog that I’m reading regularly to see what I’m missing out on the creative/ artsy front back home.

We embarked on quick two-day-one-night trip to China on the day of Hong Kong’s return to China. That sounds rather appropriate, doesn’t it ? 

I was the girl who almost missed her ferry because she was stuck in long changing room/ cashier queues in a bid to buy discount Esprit undies.

We were at the beach, different ones, on both our days in Zhuhai. One of the beaches comes with horses, friendly dogs, a pool, RMB 25 mugs of Carlsberg draft beer and no noisy expats. We would go back to Zhuhai just for this. Parfait ! 

My first haircut in six or seven months didn’t turn out too shabby. I treated myself to a hair spa too.

Ok, have to admit that it was quite a self-indulgent weekend. I treated myself to sunnies (my first pair !) and a sleeveless white blouse that I’ve been looking for a while. So close to buying something cheap on ASOS but ended up with Greyhound’s version. I’m telling myself it’s a good thing to support Southeast Asian designers.

Spent an enjoyable afternoon at the relatively quiet and non-crowded part of Causeway Bay where I had a very tasty late lunch of orecchiette with zucchini and asparagus washed down by a glass of honey thyme tea.

I watched A Fistful of Dollars without actually realizing that Joe the Americano was Clint Eastwood.

Turbot cooked Cantonese style, delicious slivers of heaven in your mouth ! It was so good that even the picky fish eater among us couldn’t stop eating it.

Bronze ginger shredder (铜姜礤)

This is a tool for making ginger slices and ginger juice, with a strainer in the front to separate the ginger juice from the scrapes after the ginger is rubbed on the handle.

Bronze oven (铜烤炉)

The four corners of the oven are tilted upwards to hold tongs and other cooking tools. Four wheels are installed under the bottom for convenience of movement.

All captions courtesy of the Museum of the Mausoleum of the Nanyue King in Guangzhou, China.

Guangzhou, I’ve been there twice over the past few months. It was for work though so I didn’t manage to explore much. Made up for it by buying a big stash of spicy Master Kong instant noodles during my second trip that I’ve since finished. Yup that’s right, MSG overdose baby.

Dim sum of course, for a first-time visitor.

Goong chae nam pla, a surprise winner ! It was maman’s first time trying the dish (also Thai food in general) and she loves it. Yay ! I’m obsessed with the dish, to say the least.

Clams, Chinese style…

… and clams cooked the Spanish way for maman’s last meal in Hong Kong before we took the bus to the airport.

It’s a quick post given that I’m currently wading through knee-deep waters of the chaotic workplace sort that will last through mid July. The French test coming up on Thursday doesn’t help either. I’m aiming to wake up at 5.30am tomorrow for more cramming, wish me luck !

Link here.

Link here.

Photos: Ivan Tan
Hair and make up: Cleo Chang
Bouquets and boutonnières: Angela Yong (by the branch)

What I had been up to last week, giving my two cents about life in Hong Kong and (what else but) food. Thanks, Euphemia for the opportunity ! Pop over for a read here and here.

Calling this fantastic would most definitely be an understatement.

Speaking of which, we’ll be off to Bangkok (where it’s likely to be chaotic and noisy… but in a good way !) over the long weekend with the family, doing touristy things and stuffing ourselves silly with delicious, spicy street food. It will be my first time in Thailand (very suaku, yes) and it’s also our first proper family vacation too. Have a good Easter holiday, everyone !

How brilliant.

Hong Kong Sevens, the offspring of an all-day Halloween party on speed and a relocation of douchebag central from Lockhart Road to Hong Kong Stadium coupled with the adrenaline rush of contact sports.

Among my favorite costumes, guy in Borat fluro green teeny-weeny swimming trunks, the Gaddafi dude, girls dressed up as grannies in sensible shoes, handbags and floral dresses, and the couple of Popes.

I was amazed at the human capacity to consume copious amounts of alcohol (and guilty of it myself as well). 

In spite of everything, the festive atmosphere was actually very family-friendly. Lots of happy children running about and having a ball of a time with their parents, grandparents or fellow kiddos from school.

Outside of rugby, we only accomplished one other thing over the weekend. We had gone to see the priest with my witness, a good friend coincidentally in town for business. Well, one more tiny step towards completing the almost-overwhelming amount of paperwork/ formal procedures in the run up to the wedding celebration in France.

As we grow older, inevitably we become more acquainted with death – a grandfather, a good friend, an uncle – yet nothing ever fully prepares us for the next.

We were with grandma just 23 days ago. She hadn’t been able to make it for the wedding celebration in Singapore so we had all trooped over to Malaysia during Chinese New Year to offer her tea – Jiak dair as grandma used to say. It may just be a cup of tea but to grandma, it meant everything, a sweet cup of everything that she had looked forward to.

A telephone call at past 12am, a flight booked hurriedly for the next morning without the usual price nit-picking. The sort of flight one dreads, this time from Hong Kong to Kuala Lumpur, with swollen eyes and barely a few hours of sleep.

We call her grandma in Teochew – Ah-Mah (阿嬷) or Mah-Mah (嬷嬷) – and then you realize you don’t actually remember her actual name. You learn new things like how grandma used to be a social smoker, menthol cigarettes only (and she didn’t enjoy smoking all that much) or how folded joss paper does not just facilitate burning but they are more valuable in the netherworld.

Malaysia has always been about the grandparents since my earliest memories – after grandpa’s death 15 years ago, we travel up north to visit grandma twice every year. First Jalan Klang Lama then Bandar Puchong Jaya, and sometimes Jalan Ipoh, in recent years, we never did much sight-seeing. We mostly stayed at home, occasional trips to IOI Mall, Mid Valley Mall and Chinatown aside. Ironically, I know Shanghai, where I’d lived for just a couple of years, much better than KL, a city that I’ve visited since I was born.

Recent afternoons were spent folding joss papers at the funeral parlor under the whirring fan, evenings participating in traditional Teochew prayer ceremonies extolling the 24 paragons of Chinese filial piety and journeys of the newly-deceased to the netherworld (complete with subtitles on an LED display screen) – parts of which could have been extremely funny in normal circumstances (not this time).

On the day of the funeral, we collected grandma’s ashes by late afternoon. It is sobering to see grandma alive and well one moment, lifeless in the coffin the next and then no more – ashes in an urn. If only all the praying, kneeling, chanting, kowtowing and bowing could bring her back to us.

But that’s selfish speak I know since we are missing her very much. It doesn’t help that we were told grandma had been re-watching our wedding celebration video (thanks to a cousin who shot it on his smartphone) on her final afternoon. Malaysia holds a special place in my heart but going there would never be the same again.

Recent developments in North Africa brings to mind an email I’d sent out some time back.

When my mom visited a few months ago, she pickled a bottle of green chillies on her last night in Hong Kong for her daughter who had missed having pickled green chillies with her wanton mee. Since then I’ve pickled a few more bottles myself, always with that particular brand of rice vinegar (in old-school glass bottles) mom had instructed. Homesickness cured by the saucerfuls, thank you mommy how I love you so.

Caption courtesy of the exhibition:

This is a photograph of Manchurian women and Han women from the late Qing dynasty. Some are wearing a top longer than the typical Han blouse and one is wearing a shortened Manchurian gown, showing signs of assimilation in fashion.

Caption courtesy of the exhibition:

This is the uniform worn by students at the Peihua School for Women in Beijing, an elite Christian middle school. Chinese top matched with western pleated skirt, illustrating an attractive and fashionable style at the time.

First from the right is Phyllis Lin Whei-Yin, age 12, who would go on to become one of Republican China’s most talented women. Celebrated poet, Xu Zhimo was one of her many fervent admirers. She eventually married renowned architect, Liang Sicheng, the oldest son of Liang Qichao. Also in this photograph are Phyllis Lin Whei-Yin’s cousins.

I think I much prefer the original qipao, delicate yet dignified and more suited for daily wear.

Caption courtesy of the exhibition:

School girls in qipao at the Canton Christian College (later Lingnan University), Guangzhou, 1927.

Caption courtesy of the exhibition:

In 1929, the Nationalist government listed the qipao as a form of ceremonial attire. The Nationalist Government Gazette, Volume 143, 18 April 1929.

Art deco influences.

Caption courtesy of the exhibition:

Celebrated writer Eileen Chang (left) and her aunt, 1930s.

The exhibition featured Chang rather prominently and quoted extensively from her first work in English, Chinese Life and Fashions, a must read for anyone interested in the evolution of Chinese aesthetics against the backdrop of the birth of modern China.

Caption courtesy of the exhibition:

Family portrait, Hebei, 1931-1932.

This has to be my favorite photo of the lot. I love how the family looks so contemporary, not solely in the way they look but also in their candid expressions. The photo could have been taken just yesterday if not for their outfits.

Caption courtesy of the exhibition:

Liu Shaoqi’s wife Wang Guangmei on a diplomatic mission to Afghanistan in April 1966. Besides Wang Guangmei, other female members of the delegation are also wearing qipao.

Caption courtesy of the exhibition:

The illustrations on this set of teaching materials show that the images of teachers are linked to the qipao during the 1950s and 1960s.

Singapore, mentioned.

You know how sometimes you don’t fancy something at first yet it somehow grows on you eventually, well this is one of those times, Connie Chan being so jarringly agreeable back in 1967. Looks like I just have to scratch beyond the surface a little to discover more of Hong Kong’s appeal.

My interest in tong laus was piqued not long after reading this article. Exactly one month ago, I had the chance to visit my first tong lau apartment. It’s cool to live in a building with a small factory workshop on the ground floor and access to a dingy shared rooftop space (oh so familiar after years of watching various TVB series) though perhaps not so cool for my friend who has to climb seven flights of stairs daily just to get home.

Hong Kong appears to be a treasure chest of exotic old-school food packaging designs as I’ve come to realize over the past months, complete with Wade-Giles romanization. Not all products originate from Hong Kong though, such as these bottles of medicinal liquor. Comparatively speaking from my own experience, I’m surprised how such vintage designs are actually less pervasive on the Mainland (give and take the occasional Feiyue and Warrior shoe packaging). Anyone knows why ?

Much of Saturday night was spent inside shipping containers. We ended the night with barbeque and beer, no pictures as my fingers were too greasy to fiddle with the camera.

Finally remembered to get some pork lard from the butcher when I was at the market to season my cast iron grill pan and wok. They don’t seem quite evenly seasoned though, rather greasy at the sides still. Will know if they are alright next time I grill/stir-fry something.

J bought himself a PS3. I never even knew he was into gaming. The things one learns after marriage these days ahaha.

Gave Sabah one more try over the weekend. Still can’t wrap my head around it. Sure the assam laksa was tasty and the curry laksa was dubious (as usual)… Then we ordered the murtabak partly because it was too cheap to pass up (HKD 35) and I was kinda craving for it after Tom’s post. Despite being prata-thin with a minimal filling of minced beef, it actually tasted pretty good. Thumbs up for the side of curry too. So well, guess I will be back.

I learnt how to pronounce plum green tea in Cantonese, thanks to a very helpful bubble tea stall staff.

Not exactly festive but if you want festive, best to head to the malls packed with shoppers and decked in tinsel and twinkly lights. Have a good Christmas in the company of good friends and family my handful of readers wherever you are !

Do you see what I see ? Love it.

And I’ve missed you so very much. Looks like I just might head your way before the end of the year. Thrilled even if it’s in the dead of winter (will probably live to regret this) and just for a few days. Wheee !

I picked up some flowers the other day after work, inspired by Angela who had designed and arranged the very lovely (and reasonably-priced) hand bouquets and boutonnières for my wedding celebration. For those of you in Singapore who have a wedding coming your way soon, definitely consider scheduling an appointment to talk flowers with Angela. She was great to work with and has amazing aesthetics to boot.

Think I ate yong tau foo about three times in the span of one week, this was my first bowl with mommy at her favorite stall. I don’t think I can ever get sick of yong tau foo, I would eat it everyday if I could.

Feasting at the family’s favorite hawker centre in Bedok (not Blk 85), about a 10-15 minute walk from home. Delicious BBQ stingray, satay, steamed prawns, BBQ chicken wings, even kuay chap if we want… what more can we ask for ?

A little snack while waiting for my family to arrive at Blk 85, my hawker centre of choice for meet ups with friends. Sorry #4, will make it up to you next or next, next time !

Steamed rabbit fish (or peh dou he, as we Teochews call it) doesn’t look very appetizing but trust me it is, especially with a dip of roughly chopped garlic, chilli, ginger, light soy sauce and a dash of lime. Comfort food that goes best with porridge or rice.

Not greedy (ok maybe a little) but this is what happens when you don’t have time for two separate meals of Hainanese chicken rice and mee hoon kueh. I’ve yet to come across well-made chicken rice chilli dips in Hong Kong that pack a fiery punch even though it’s relatively easier to find chicken rice there (than in Shanghai). Sigh !

We held our wedding celebration in Singapore last week, graced by a cozy bunch of family and close friends. We got really lucky weather-wise as grey ominous clouds and downpours had marked most of the week prior.

Glad that everything turned out well after months of preparations just the way we hope, with a good mix of formalities, customs (hello, bride-fetching games, tea ceremony !) and casual fun. No champagne towers or dress changes, I wore the same wedding dress and ate and drank and mingled with everyone through the night, plus a bit of dancing to music from a self-compiled playlist.

So yes, we’re out of the sort-of married twilight zone finally ! Time to unpack my luggage (I miss Singapore already) and a little break before part two of the celebrations with the other side of the family next year.

p.s. Oh, the paper cut-out above was done by my superbly crafty cousin A at past 12am the night before the wedding, just four hours before the photographer, make up/ hair stylist, family and friends were due to arrive. Yes we were thaat last minute, ahaha.

p.p.s. From the husband to a friend who couldn’t join us: “La celebration s’est tres bien passee, j’ai pleure pendant mon discours et je suis malade depuis hier, bref tout va bien.” And that’s exactly how we started the first day of the rest of our lives.

Quite the perfect excuse, really, to buy myself a bottle of Madame Pearl’s Cough Syrup. How could anyone have resisted the vintage packaging which appears not to have changed much since 1954, those to-die-for fonts and contrasting pop colors ? Apparently it’s also Hong Kong’s best-selling cough syrup brand, or so its website claims.

Well now, time to see if it works as well as it looks. (Even if it doesn’t, I guess I’ve already got my money’s worth.)

UPDATE: It works !!

I meant to buy some fabric but what with the market being closed on Sunday and remaining stalls closing up by early afternoon (ugh !),  we bought ice creams (blame it on the hypnotic ice cream truck music) and took a walk about the neighborhood instead.

Since I’m not generally a fan of sugary-buttery goodness, you can probably guess that I wasn’t the one who’d ordered this. I wasn’t tempted to try it and didn’t eat any of it either.

Instead I ordered tomato macaroni soup for the first time, apparently a cha chaan teng staple. It was just okay, probably something I would order if I was ill or if I didn’t feel like eating at all.

Yay for roasted meats. The pork crackling was very good and so was the side of crunchy cabbage. I only wish they had included Singapore-style chicken rice or duck rice chilli in their selection of condiments.

This was our late dinner last night. I got home slightly earlier i.e. 8.30pm and whipped up a quick meal of chilli tuna linguine. Canned chilli tuna courtesy of my friend S who unloaded her stash at my place en route back to Singapore. As you can see, I love coriander very, very much and usually add an irrationally ginormous amount to my food whenever I cook at home.

For our trip, we were based in Shantou mainly because my parents and sister flew in direct to Shantou from Singapore. We pretty much spent most of our days visiting relatives and ancestral homes in Chaozhou, the two cities being so close it didn’t even feel like we were traveling between cities.

Markets hidden in snaking residential alleys.

I’m fascinated by Shantou’s cage-like apartment facades that are messy, dingy and so full of character.

Chickens and ducks for sale in the market, fresh meat like it should.

It’s the first time in my life in an environment where everyone speaks Teochew unabashedly. It was so surreal considering that as a child growing up in Singapore, for a time I was rather ashamed of speaking Teochew in public (all my friends in school spoke either Mandarin or English, only old folks converse in this antiquated dialect, or so I thought) and couldn’t understand why my mom insisted on speaking the dialect instead of Mandarin. Fast forward to 2010, I’m really glad I was able to order food in Teochew and be understood by the locals.

A friend recently backpacked for a few weeks through southern China. Upon arriving in Shantou, she found it boring and couldn’t wait to get out as fast as she could, promptly getting on the next bus to Xiamen.

In Shantou’s defense, I’ve been to far more dreary cities devoid of character still fumbling to find their place in modern China today. In comparison, Shantou can be rather attractive and quaint if you take a bit of time to get to know it even though it’s as left behind as those other cities.

To me it is familiar (can’t help it, Teochew heritage) yet foreign at the same time, quite unlike the other parts of China I had been to.

Its melancholic charm best experienced in narrow streets and crumbling architecture left forgotten and unpreserved. By the way, these posters are pure gold.

In the city’s old quarter, I get the feeling as if I am in Singapore or Malaysia circa 1970/80s.

Stained glass windows are everywhere if you notice. Wonder what’s the story behind since I don’t usually associate stained glass as intrinsically Chinese. British merchants, treaty ports, colonial past ?

Rust eating away at the cast-iron art-deco facade, an impressive structure that I wish had been better preserved.

Of course some traces of Communist influences…

Pointed arch window frames, stained glass windows and may Chairman Mao live for 10,000 years.

We also found Mao in unexpected places, which makes the exploration quite very rewarding.

A little snack since the flight in question was delayed for more than a few hours and there was nothing else we could do to interrupt the boredom of the wait.

Waiting with the extended family I have never known at the airport for my parents and sister to arrive. Finally ! That’s the plane they were on.

Dai pai dong, Teochew style FTW.

A selection of boiled/ steamed fish to go with plain rice porridge.

Wanted to try the tasty-looking raw marinated crabs but chickened out in the end.

Listening to children on the streets speak fluent Teochew, yet another surreal moment.

So many oysters to shuck.

More beef noodles.

Fishball and sliced pork noodles.

Probably the weirdest thing I’d seen in Shantou (make that Chaozhou too).

How long does it take for reused signages to reach this stage ?

If I have to pick one photo to represent the state of derelict and despair in Shantou’s old quarter, this will be it. Everyone’s resigned to fate, residents and buildings alike.

Such a pity the buildings are just biding their time to be torn down.

Transporting pigeons on public transport. On the same bus we also witnessed how buses double as express courier service when a person got on the bus to collect a parcel from the bus conductor then hopped off at the same stop. Highly amusing !

As you may already have noticed, noodles was our starchy staple of choice for the duration of our stay in Shantou.

The cab driver had to answer a phone call midway through our ride, except that his phone was chained to his belt. He was speeding along the road with his head tilted in this manner for ten or so nerve-wracking minutes.

A Chinese opera puppet show we stumbled upon after following the sounds of lively music. It was a lovely treat especially as we don’t get to see much of these in Singapore anymore.

We were among the few people at the neighborhood temple watching the performance under the awnings, alongside old folks.

Indiscreet and nonchalant advertising by the street.

An interesting choice of gates for a construction company.

Spied upon the subtlety of stars…

… and motorcycle taxi drivers waiting for their next customers.

Farewell Shantou (and Chaozhou), it’s been a trip like no other and certainly much more significant than any trip I’ve gone on. I’ll hope to come back soon one day !

Nothing like a banquet in a factory to start things off.

Some frightened, fluffy ducklings along the way.

My granduncle has a shrine in his bedroom, documenting all of his post-retirement travels, I kid you not.

The first of many homes we’ll visit, this one equipped with its own table tennis room.

One relative also reared pigs in a now-disused house. My mom recalled that another relative (whoops, can’t remember, maybe one of her uncles) used to live there when she was a child.

Was told that grandma’s family owns a pastry shop. We still make Teochew pastries and breads today, but on a much smaller scale as the family has branched into the more profitable business of manufacturing stainless steel kitchen cookware some years ago.

Another home, another round of tea.

More often than not, rural life in China today look more like this. Typically in villages where tourism is not a key attraction, quaint old houses still exist, though in small numbers and usually not in a good state,  amid modern boxy concrete low-rises, a sign of new wealth.

Late afternoon along the Han River on the relatives’ boat.

Our relatives have a modest vegetable plot, mostly grown for their own consumption.

Almost ready for harvest, I suppose.

More feasting…

… I successfully worked up a good stamina and finished my share of food.

Kway chap and braised duck with tangy chilli dip, oh such lipsmacking goodness ! So it’s proven that my love of spicy dips (and coriander) does come from my Teochew heritage.

The main entrance to mom’s childhood abode.

More traces of the Communist years.

The other homecoming, my mom standing in front of the cramped living quarters where she spent her childhood in. Three generations of women – my mom,  grandmother and great-grandmother great-great-grandmother – once stayed here while my grandfather toiled away in Southeast Asia as a shopkeeper’s assistant. He eventually saved enough money to send all three of them over to Kuala Lumpur, where he was at.

A migrant worker lives here today, the space converted into a no-nonsense bedroom and a makeshift kitchen.

A virtue that still stands important in Chinese families today, so many years after the revolution. We see traces from the past, a past that my family has escaped. I can’t help but wonder what would have happened instead if they hadn’t left ? What would have become of me ?

Also, looking at the elders in the family, I wonder about what they had gone through during those tough years… things we don’t see or talk about that stay quiet behind those smiling faces.

Familiar faces from the village.

More tea !

The ancestral hall in the village may have seen better days.

No wall in Chaozhou is complete without the digital wall clock. We saw it in most living rooms. Even the ancestral hall has one too.

View from the roof of a relative’s house.

Even our relatives, who are Chaozhou locals, got lost while trying to look for the ancestral hall on my dad’s side of the family.

After stopping a couple of times and asking around, we finally found it. The ancestral hall is obviously more well-maintained than the one in my mom’s village.

Unfortunately we don’t know anyone in this village.

So time was mostly spent at the ancestral hall burning paper offerings and viewing the generation poem of our clan. Yes, found ! It’s a good start… even though my sister and I don’t know which generation we belong to.

That signature stamp totally resembles a toy soldier cartoon character, doesn’t it ?

We now know we are descendants of a Northern Song scientist. It doesn’t add up though, I barely passed physics when I was in junior college.

With the old men who tend to the ancestral hall. They told us about other clan members from Thailand who made annual trips back.

Along the Han River again, mother river of the Teochews. My mom told me there was a saying about how all Teochews grew up drinking water from the Han River.

For those who may head this way, I’ll definitely recommend a walk along Chaozhou’s old city walls.

Yet again, the juxtaposition of the new and old.

From the wall, I caught sight of Lenin’s portrait, along with those of other Chinese communist leaders, on the walls of a school.

“生男生女都一样，女儿也是传后人”

More views from the wall.

Boiled shrimps fresh from the Han River.

Our newfound big fat Teochew family !

No trip to China is complete without karaoke and here in Chaozhou, it’s serious business with makeshift machines and public singing !

Video: 556 photos shot on a Canon PowerShot G10
Music: 1991 by Crystal Castles

Guilty as charged, I haven’t been a good blogger of late as I’d been sorting through and uploading a selection of photos from a trip with my family to Chaozhou and Shantou earlier in May this year (yes, May !). So here goes, a very much overdue post featuring a fast-paced compilation of photos (actually the first of a short series, as it turns out).

Chaozhou, located in the easternmost part of Guangdong Province in China, is a city very close to my heart. It’s the hometown of my grandparents, on both sides of the family and I’m very glad to have made the trip with my family, especially with mom – it’s her first time back since she left on the slow boat to Malaysia with my grandmother and great-grandmother great-great-grandmother 50-something years ago.

I am thankful that I now have more than just mom’s recollections to base my family’s past on. It’s been an important process getting to know my roots against the backdrop of a rapidly-developing prefecture-level city and meeting distant relatives for the first time. Photos to follow.

Wondering if anyone still buys chunlian for the Chinese New Year these days. We still see them in stores when the new year nears, so I suppose some people still do.

Beats me why ‘仃’ was used instead of ‘停’.

I’m not a fan of the plump, rounded typeface so it’s not surprising that I haven’t paid much attention right till now as I’m drafting the post. Interesting to see how the type designer works around thinner counters due to the generous girths.

The last time I’d celebrated Mid-Autumn Festival proper was when I was a child and mommy had signed us up for celebrations organized by the Residents’ Committee in our neighborhood.

In Hong Kong, it’s more of a big deal and people make sure to spend time with their families and head home/ out to restaurants for reunion dinners so I got caught up in the flow too.

Forget about battery-powered inflatable lanterns with all the bells and whistles, flimsy traditional lanterns FTW !

We also took a trip down memory lane… à la pomelo hats. Yup, it’s as entertaining and ridiculous as it looks.

Can’t decide on what I like best about this year’s Mid-Autumn Festival – the family flying in to celebrate with us, me eating a grand total of ZERO mooncakes or this chubby squirrel lantern my sister bought for J.

Aren’t these the loveliest coins in the world ? Wish there were more in the series.

I say jacket on shoulders. Who needs Balmain when your usual blazer gives you instant structured shoulders !

Style preferences aside, it’s actually a very practical/ refreshing option (outside of the typical cardigan and stole mix) this side of the hemisphere, where it’s air-conditioning at full mind-numbing blast indoors against the heat and humidity outside. Keeps me warm in the office yet light enough to skip out to lunch in without breaking out in yucky sweat.

Not to mention, the look does pleasantly bring to mind chivalrous men who offer jackets to their companions. A new twist to the term ‘boyfriend blazer’, and I think I like this definition a little more.

Pretty much the icing on the cake, these exclamation marks.

Thunderstorm essentials: Ballet flats that are not afraid of the rain, shorts because I rather my bare legs get wet than don wet jeans, a water-proof bag and long sleeves to keep me warm.

It was pretty intent on pecking at both sneakers. This photo was taken at about the same time it started pecking at the second sneaker.

I’ve recently been so enamored with this collage by Anthony Zinonos that I’m actually using it as my MacBook wallpaper. Which makes it rather surprising that I failed to see the connection until J pointed it out. Oh you tricky beady-eyed hypnotic monster of a bird.

Hair salon… or not ?

Shanghainese staples that you’ll see everywhere streetside once you get out of the tourist zones though in my opinion, nothing beats mee pok tah. Any day.

Been a massive homebody in recent weekends. Likewise, this weekend was about doing the laundry on Saturday, vacuuming/ mopping the floor on Sunday, relaxing some then working some and stocking up on groceries. We stopped by the florist and I’m really glad these flowers came home with us.

I’ve always wondered about the people behind these chalk-written propaganda messages. Is it those old folks with red armbands sitting on their little stools in the morning sun or chain-smoking men strolling about the neighborhood at dusk ?

I think we’ve found the perfect French restaurant in Hong Kong (well actually my mom found it and she has been nagging us to go check it out since we arrived). It’s non-pretentious and serves delicious home style food, which already says a lot. I had my very first steamed whole artichoke and enjoyed the process very much.

Plus service is impeccable and non-intrusive. The only thing that keeps us from going back more frequently would be the price factor. Oh well it’s definitely one restaurant we’ll bookmark for special occasions… which leads us to why we were there that night, because I’d found a job !

I’m now two weeks in and been kept on my toes with so many new things to learn. It has been exciting but also rather stressful so I’ve mostly been cooped up in the office and not exploring the city (or blogging) too much. Explorations are generally limited to the food-related sort in our neighborhood and I think I can get used to the laid back weekend dim sum brunch routine Hongkongers do with tea and good reading materials in hand.

And yes don’t judge me, that is chicken feet (though not in black bean sauce the way I like). I’m trying to get past the not-so-classy aspect of consuming chicken feet by cutting them up into smaller pieces with my spoon and chopsticks first. Blame my coworker for getting me hooked. So tasty !

More commonly known as the apartment block where famed Chinese writer Eileen Chang lived for a number of years.

A rather impromptu reunion of sorts with the students’ council guys, it’s slightly creepy how these pictures exude quite a timeless feel. Put us back in uniforms and we’ll look no different from 10 years (!) back.

Also funny how back in those days, the hawker centre was the last place I would suggest when I meet with friends, it’s more where I go to dine with family. But of course in recent years, whenever I’m back in Singapore, the hawker centre increasingly becomes a natural dining location of choice for meet ups. Trendy restaurants are everywhere and I rather divide my time between homecooked meals and hawker centres during my limited number of days there.

Speaking of which, I’m already back in Hong Kong and ought to scamper off to bed now as gainful employment starts tomorrow. Mixed feelings abound.

Singapore 1960
Venue: National Museum of Singapore
Date: 3 June 2010 – 22 August 2010
Time: 10am – 6pm
Admission: Free

If the name Cai Guo-Qiang rings a bell, it may be because he recently curated “Peasant da Vincis”, an impressive showcase of Chinese peasant inventions, at the equally impressive Rockbund Art Museum in Shanghai.

“Head On” was Cai’s earlier work, first exhibited in 2006 at the Deutsche Guggenheim as his debut solo show in Germany. It consists of 99 life-size replicas of wolves running and flying into a glass wall. Trust me, it’s definitely something one must see in person to grasp the magnificence of the work. Definitely worth a trip to the National Museum of Singapore for those in town !

Cai Guo-Qiang: Head On
Venue: National Museum of Singapore
Date: 2 July 2010 – 31 August 2010
Time: 10am – 6pm
Admission: Free

Video: 547 photos shot on a Canon PowerShot G10
Music: Taking Wing by Daedelus

Not long after my last day at work, I went on a hastily-planned backpacking trip with the sister. It was the first time we traveled together, just the two of us, and I was anxious to show her 36-hour train journeys and the northwestern face of China I love so much.

Time constraints dictate we give Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region – typically off the tourist radar given its location and lack of prominent tourist attractions – a shot over Xinjiang and Qinghai. During our time there, we learned more about the short-lived Xixia kingdom in between many servings of spicy vegetable chuan’r and liangpi.

Video: 1,131 photos shot on a Canon PowerShot G10
Music: Trace a Line by Au Revoir Simone

Experimenting for the first time with a new medium in the hope of more timely posts. I sure had a lot of fun doing it. Hope you like it.

An extra incentive to drink milk, considering they come in such lovely old school bottles.

Hong Kong, the land of fishball mee pok soups.

Like I said, land of fishball mee pok soups. A pity they aren’t served with red chilli slices in soy sauce though.

I’ve had a good trip cramped full of homecooked meals, thrift (and some non-thrift) shopping, cats, family time and plenty of afternoons spent in gardens. Unfortunately my camera’s so overloaded with photos that I cannot upload them directly with a cable. I’m trying to delete as many as I could before I resort to buying a card reader. Well, let’s see.

p/s Updates will likely be very sporadic over the next two weeks as we are bound for Europe tonight. Looking forward to spending time with the family and attending a wedding in South East England, but first I should probably get started on packing that suitcase…

Yesterday marked a one-day mid-week siesta for Hong Kong as it celebrates this year’s Dragon Boat Festival. We appropriately spent the afternoon at Stanley Beach watching the dragon boat races and bustling crowds.

I’d promised mom I would eat a rice dumpling but it completely slipped my mind so I guess I’ll have to go look for one today. Wish me luck !

First, an aphorism by famed Persian poet Saadi at the entrance.

Then a showcase of the country’s technology advancements…

… industrial progress…

… and natural resources.

There was also a little booth set up to attract foreign investment, the sort that materializes at non-trade expositions.

But the highlight of the pavilion has got to be the carpet showroom on the second floor. Persian hand-woven carpets are among the world’s finest and so do not make the cheapest souvenirs (such as this one at RMB 40,000), that I know.

But I’m rather flabbergasted by the seeming mindlessly-chosen designs.

A year’s worth of hard work by an unknown weaver somewhere in Iran, priced at RMB 46,000…

Why ??

At the cafeteria, we had tasty saffron pistachio ice cream and watched an Iranian staff endlessly water the brick floor. We tried querying the purpose of this act…

… unfortunately none of the Iranian staff spoke enough English to tell us why.

Someone’s idea of a birthday present.

Right next to the Iran Pavilion, nice touch.

Cross the pretend bridge to view the pretend Juche Tower and pretend Pyongyang cityscape.

I spoke to a North Korean for the first time. Not surprising that she could speak reasonably alright English and Mandarin.

We bought a couple of books so we have officially contributed moolah to Kim’s despotic regime.

Seems like whoever’s in charge had edited the selection of books to ensure there are none of the fervent propaganda content intended for domestic consumption I had heard so much about.

Disappointed.

19 December 1921 – 10 June 2010

Here’s some of the pavilions which caught my eye (and which happen to photograph well).

China

Australia

Singapore

Thailand

Portugal

Finland

Estonia

Latvia

Denmark

Sweden

Iceland

United Kingdom

Italy

Croatia

Russia

Germany

France

The (very awesome) farewell/ wedding gift from our good friends that was separately shipped a few days after the packers had gone. At last check, our gazillion boxes of pots and pans, books and clothes are still stranded at a port in Shanghai. Gee, thanks.

I was seven years old in 1989 and yet I remembered seeing the Tank Man on telly. It left such an impression that when I finally stood at the square in 2004 (my first time in China at a ripe old age of 22), I was overwhelmed by the historical significance of being actually there in person: the very venue where Red Guard fanatics waved crimson books at Mao… and its proximity to where blood was shed years later in the tumultuous summer of ’89.

Despite pro-democracy agendas of the various activist groups present at Victoria Park, I’m touched by how 150,000 Hong Kongers (or so the organizers say) from all walks of life have come together for the event – young, old, very pregnant and with kids in tow. Singaporeans, I guess, still have a long way to go in this respect. I left the park with two songs in my head, wondering about the mainlanders in today’s crowd – are they ordinary Chinese nationals or outspoken individuals already on the party’s radar ? Not that it matters, of course.

Hot pot highlights: KY’s refreshing pea shoots and mango salad and her mom’s oh-so-spicy chilli sauce.

Kidney bean, mushroom and pan-fried salmon linguini for two.

Made the most of an all-you-can-eat Japanese dinner on a school night.

Not in my top form last Saturday as I sneezed my way from Shanghai to Hong Kong, home for the next couple of years. Being sick-ish in Hong Kong made me feel claustrophobic for the first time. Fingers crossed it won’t happen again. On a cheerier note, wireless internet connection in the apartment was set up within the first hour of our moving in. Yay.

Not the best Korean we’ve had…

… but I think it is good enough given its proximity to home. No waitress to help us with the cooking so sore hands after all that tongs gripping and meat flipping.

Finally tried crab xiaolongbao’s, the mothership of them all.

Very tasty and worth every bit of the RMB 81 price tag though admittedly a little too rich to consume on a regular basis.

Lots of walking.

J tricked us into walking from Wan Chai to Causeway Bay for dinner. His lure: the “It’s just right in front” line.

J got his karmic retribution when I accidentally ate his bowl of satay beef noodles the next day. In my defense, the broth doesn’t taste satayish and he had asked for proper noodles not instant noodles.

The weekend started early as we left for Hong Kong on Thursday night, zipping about Mid Levels and Wanchai for most of our time in Hong Kong.

Fingers crossed for that lovely apartment in Wan Chai which overlooks the quaintest neatly put-together rooftop garden.

Back in Shanghai, we popped by a tiny izakaya for some ramen and yakitori treats.

I watched half of Princess Mononoke and the whole of My Neighbor Totoro. I’d never thought that one day I would watch these two films but I’m glad I did.

Mori played host and whipped up a delicious Japanese meal on Sunday night.

So I’ve slacked off posting photos from my recent travels in Shantou, Chaozhou and Hong Kong but only because rest on Sunday turned out to be a much higher priority.

Polka dots with the trusty oversized military jacket for an outfit that doesn’t require too much thought.

That coming from a conversation between two trendy-looking post-90s Chinese boys, I couldn’t help but started paying attention to what they were saying as it was surprisingly heartfelt.

“我一点都不想家，还比较想家里的狗。”

The conversation took a turn for something a little more unexpected when one of the boys talked about how he grew to be rather independent when he was growing up because his parents were busy most of the time and were not at home. He saw them once a week for dinner at most.

“我从不打我们家的狗，太心疼。”

His friend responded when the boy mentioned that he always hits his dog at his family home. Even today when he gets his dog sitter to let him speak to his dog over the phone, the animal cringes with fear just hearing his voice.

“我的外甥也蛮怕我的。”

The boy added. He noted he is strict with his nephew because he doesn’t want the child to grow up like him, a rebellious teenager who engaged in fights and theft because he was spoilt by his parents. He stole RMB 10,000 from his dad one time.

“郁闷。”

He said he has been in Shanghai since November last year and remarked how he hasn’t been homesick once unlike his friends. His father is now visiting and will likely stay for one to two months more, he’s not too enthusiastic about it.

“我爸打完后，带我去买吃的。”

The two boys delved further into their childhood, marked by experiences of being hit by their respective fathers when they misbehaved. One mentioned how his dad dragged him home from a fight and hit his head against the wall on a separate occasion, contrary to my impression of well-to-do Chinese fathers who fawn over their little emperors.

I’d then finished lunch and had to go back to the office. It was quite a bit of interesting insight into the lives of China’s post-90s youth today I suppose. At times like this, I really appreciate that I do blend into the crowd quite easily.

Liking how the weave belt added more shape and spunk to this secondhand dress I’d thrifted in France. Paired with dark grey thermal leggings as the weather is still a little too cold for bare legs.

We found ourselves at the Shanghai Botanical Garden, even then the skies turned somewhat grey not too long after. We had intended to head to Chongming Island for a leisurely day trip but the throngs of people queuing to buy ferry tickets scared us off.

Look what a last minute change of plans brought us – chirpy Haibao all decked out in Santa Claus gear balancing on his ribbon with a bouquet in hand. Haibao effigies are annoyingly everywhere in Shanghai these days, I’m afraid.

Don’t think I’ve seen tulips out of vases growing in the soil before this.

We stared at this colorful horticulture attempt for the longest time: What are the two pandas in the foreground doing ? Is this a ritual of sorts ? Why is the girl panda lying down ? So many questions, no answer to date.

Then a little stroll in a pretend bamboo forest.

I haven’t had a balloon in years ! I was happy, so was 小虎 !

Not as fantastic as the ones by Terry Richardson and Tommy. I need to learn to take better pictures.

There were still alot of people everywhere though, families out in full force with grandparents and kids in strollers. I might have been the only adult with a balloon but it was good fun reliving childhood.

Throw in a few upcoming trips: Going down south in search of my roots, visit ancestral hometowns for the first time and see where I might have been if my great-grandmother, grandmother and mother had not gotten on the slow boat to Southeast Asia in 1959. Then a week-long backpacking holiday with the sister to northwestern China. It’s going to be the first time we are traveling together by ourselves and I can’t wait to show her the non-touristy side of China.

At this point, there are so many uncertainties. I’m fraught with worry yet what would life be without the thrill of uncertainties ahead ? I can only hope they will fall in place properly in due course. To add to the noise, the fiancé is currently caught in the volcanic ash hoopla in Europe. Let’s hope he can make it back safely and in time. Fingers crossed.

Just when you thought Obama Entertainment Club is the pits.

Actually, this isn’t so bad. I mean, it could have been worse.

I’ve recently rekindled my love for this fiery hot and savory mix-it-up streetside snack which originated from Sichuan Province. KY first introduced me to it a few years ago when we were flatmates. A few weeks ago, I stumbled upon a stall selling the snack and guess what, I couldn’t resist.

It’s an easy process: Let the stall owner know which ingredients you would like in your snack – from a selection of mostly sliced beef, beef offal to processed food – and she will weigh the portions (so you know how much to pay) before mixing everything skillfully in a large wok with generous sprinklings of condiments, coriander and roasted peanuts. It should cost about RMB 10+ and definitely under RMB 20.

I’m not a big fan of beef or beef offal so my version is usually more a combination of crunchy things such as cucumber, jellyfish, seaweed, pig ears, transparent noodly things and Jew’s ear. While I’m quite certain it doesn’t sound very appetizing to the non-Asians among my readers but trust me, it is ! Crunch crunch, om nom nom nom !

Pet chicken let out for a walk.

A little girl waiting for her friends.

Here they come, in full split-pants glory.

Ducks hung up streetside. Hygiene, pollution, whatever. Doesn’t matter.

Dusty second-hand books and random knick-knacks.

A sad dog trapped behind glass panels. I’ve walked past this shop often enough to know he’s there most of the time.

Selection of Chinese wines.

The carefree smoker cyclist.

Plant growing in reckless abandon.

Black sesame dumpling break. Don’t be misled by the size, they are about three parts dough to one part black sesame.

Narrow alleyways.

New textured tiles contrasted against windows that are almost falling apart.

Mobile vegetable hawkers. (Take that, cilantrophobes !)

Fading traces, almost forgotten. Inevitably so, I’ve always found it extremely humbling and sombering to bear witness to these traces of history.

Someone’s open-air storage grounds for stone statues.

Botanical art forms.

Never knew Sir Stamford Raffles had such muscular calves.

The view from the second floor of the Old Parliament House. The Old Parliament House was actually closed that particular day but we were allowed to venture to the second floor on basis of checking out an event venue.